Dulcimer Maintenance

Wood Finish and Instrument Care

The most common finish for a commercial instrument is lacquer.  If you damage an instrument with this finish it is hard for most people to make a good repair.  If you check YouTube you can find videos that will give you good information about this.

The following information is more for instruments I have made, or other small builders who used an oil finish such as Danish Oil or Tung Oil.

For the final sanding, I use 600 grit sandpaper. After sanding I use Danish Oil for a finish. The oil soaks into the wood and cures within the wood. It does not make a built-up finish. If you scuff the wood deeply you can do as much sanding as needed. With a paper towel or soft cloth wipe the oil on the surface. Let it soak in for a few minutes, and then wipe it off.  If there are no problems, but you want to brighten the finish, just use the 600. Wipe on the finish and immediately wipe it off. Let it dry overnight. This will leave I tiny amount on the surface that should make it look as good as new.

Another finish I like is beeswax.  Wax finish for wood usually has added oils.  The pictures show the products I use.

Fretboard Length, Tuning, and Strings

The most common key for dulcimers is D, but they can be tuned to any key you like. If your strings are meant for the key of D, you can probably go up to E, or down to C, but if you change more than that, you should change your strings to get the best sound. If a string is too loose, it will not sound good, and intonation may be wrong for some of the notes. If you have to get a string too tight, it may break, and strings that are too tight are harder on fingers, and harder to play.

If you are experienced and play every day, you may want your strings tighter than a beginner with soft fingertips. I have made up this guide for strings that should work for various string lengths and tunings in the key of D or G.

If you want to learn more about string sizes or try a special combination. take a look at this website: http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_guitar_string.htm

27.5" VSL:     Bass string is D below middle C:   DAA - .024, .013, .013    DAD - .024, .013, .011

         Baritone, Bass string is G or A below D:   GDD - .036, .022, .022    GDG - .036, .022, .015 

25.5" VSL:    Bass string is D below middle C:    DAA - .024, .014, .014    DAD - .024, .014, .012

               The Bass string is G below middle C:   GDD - .016, .012, .012     GDG - does not work

23" VSL:       Bass string is D below middle C:    DAA - .026, .016, .016    DAD - .026, .016, .013

               The Bass string is G below middle C:    GDD - .022, .013, .013    GDG - .022, .013, .010

 19" VSL:     Bass string is D above middle C:     DAA - .016, .010, .010    DAD - does not work

              The Bass string is G below middle C:     GDD - .024, .014, .014    GDG - .024, .014, .011

              The Bass string is A below middle C:     AEE - .024, .014, .014     AEA - .024, .014, .011

Setting a Free Standing Bridge

You may be concerned that if you move a free-standing bridge it will be hard to put it back in place. It is not hard to do. Using a tape measure, start from the nut, and set it in the expected spot (ex. 25.5"). Usually the correct spot is 1/8" longer than the VSL. Tune the string. Play the note at fret 7. This should be the same note, an octave higher.

If the note is sharp, move the bridge farther from the nut. If the note is flat, move the bridge closer to the nut. Re-tune the string, and try again. Make very small adjustments.

Solid-body electrics have an adjustable bridge, so you can change each string. Use a Phillips screwdriver to shorten or lengthen the string. Use the Allen wrench to raise or lower a string.